August 1, 2008
Los Angeles, Ca
A package came in the mail for me today – I thought it was one of the many books I had recently ordered from Amazon and I was delighted to find that it was an advanced copy of Jennifer McLagan’s new book, “Fat, an appreciation of a misunderstood ingredient.”
I am so excited about this book that I wanted to write about it as soon as I can. Although I have not had a chance to try out any of the recipes in her new book, everything I made from her previous book, “Bones,” was pure delight!
Her opening introduction is as fellows: ” I love fat, whether it’s s slice of foie gras terrine, its layer of yellow fat melting at the edges, rich, soft marrow scooped hot from the bone; French butter from Normandy, redolent of herbs, flowers, and cream; hot bacon fat spiked with vinegar, wilting a plate of pungent greens into submission; a slice or two of fine ham eaten just as its fat begins to turn translucent from the warmth of the room, sweet, nutty , and salty all at once; or a piece of crunchy pork crackling, delicious either hot or cold. I love fat: I love the way it feels in my mouth, and I love its many tastes. ” Now how could you not get excited about that? How could you not want to go out to the nearest Mexican market and rip open a bag of fried pork skin or drive down the cheese store to find the best French butter for your Sat morning toast?
I am sold! I need no more convincing to the virtue of fat. But then again, I was raised in a culture where so many of my delicious childhood memories were filled with fat in every form. There was this noodle dish that my grandma used to make, cooked noodles served dry mixed with lard, fresh green onions, slices of cucumber and fried shallot pieces. We were told that it was not very nutritious and considered to be food for the “poor” – but our enjoyment of it did not diminish regardless whether this is a dish meant for a King or the begger outside the palace. My grandma used to make home make red bean paste that is the filling for much of Chinese based deserts and holiday foods. Her red bean fillings are so good that ladies in the neighborhood would buy them from her instead of making their own. Other than the red beans, the second ingredient and maybe the most important is lard.
Brown Butter Ice Cream, Burnt Butter Biscuits, Salted Butter Tart, Miso and Orange Roasted Pork Belly, Duck Fat Biscuits with Cracklings… these are just some of the many recipes that made my mouth water as I flipped through McLagan’s new book – I am so excited by the pleasure that I am certain that I will find in these recipes that I wish I had a reason to cook for 10 tomorrow just to share this guaranteed pleasure.
Never is there such a simple and universal ingredient that can make the moment of first bit a celebrated memory. I still remember the delight of that buttered toast from Boulette’s Larder that I had back in Feb or the first taste of potatoes fried in duck fat I made for Christmas 4 years ago.
I LOVE FAT! You must try it for yourself!
